Written on Thursday, January 12th, 2012 at 7:52 am
walking in provence, wildlife
There’s nothing like it. Brilliant blue skies and bright sunshine. So while Sue takes her job of testing out the restaurants and local wines very seriously, this week I have made my escape from Chatelaine duties (getting the house ready for our 2012 visitors), and I have dragged Jean away from the sewing machine (she splits her duties between the garden in summer, and creative soft-furnishing wizard in the winter) to try out local walks. We’ve done old favourites, and a few new ones.
Straight from the house, we wandered down to the river. The changes in its course along the wide river bed now means you can do a circular walk all the way from the house to Les Pilles by the river, coming back through the woods. I wonder whether we’ll be able to do the same in the Spring?
But we first stretched out our legs on at Eyrolles, a great walk to blow away the UK winter blues and get the muscles moving. At around 2 hours, it’s satisfying but not too taxing.
That’s just as well because the next day we went to another favourite place, vulture viewing on the Rocher de Caire above Remuzat (take the road up to the top from St May). We’ve often seen walkers head off along the ridge – so had decided to have a go just to test out the terrain. But once started, there was no turning back! It was a great walk, up to the snow line (just a few little patches where the sun couldn’t get to it) and the rewards of seeing the snow-capped Alpes in the distance from the highest point. About 4 hours with plenty of breaks to drink coffee, re-fuel, and soak up the sunshine.
And yesterday we started off from Sahune to try out a brand new walk. It had its moments – a very steep drag up a shale path. But coming down that route would have been even more challenging. We’re not goats! And probably because we weren’t properly reading the instructions (and talking too much!) we missed a vital yellow cross (that would have told us not to carry straight on) and the fairly hidden path (if you weren’t looking for it) up the required steep wooded path. So we probably added a good couple of kilometres to what would otherwise have been a 4km walk. But once we’d retraced our steps all was fine, with the walk ending up passing the feudal castle of Sahune (now a private property that is part restored) and the ruins of the old village of Sahune. If you’re not feeling quite so intrepid, you can drive up there and wander around the abandoned streets.
A great start to 2012. And the library make-over got finished as well.
Written on Tuesday, December 6th, 2011 at 11:05 am
wildlife
One of the fascinating things about this area is the wide variety of flora and fauna that can be seen – many of which you just don’t see in the UK.
My latest viewing (as mentioned in a previous post) is a wolf which was pretty exciting. I have seen boar on several occasions. They seem to travel in pairs or groups and as they look round in the headlights have the expression of naughty schoolboys caught careering home after an illicit night out on the town.
For a while a badger used to hang around at night in the drainage channel outside my front gate. He looked very cross at being woken by the car and walked across the road very slowly glaring at me! He obviously used to visit the garden quite often judging from the ‘presents’ he left behind. In fact on that delicate subject, I must recommend a book which makes an ideal stocking filler for anyone interested in wildlife – Who Sh.t that? - a vital aid for identification purposes!
Not many rabbits (all in the pot perhaps?) but the occasional deer in the garden. We’ve also had a mysterious animal visitor seen by both my son and me during the day. Our best guess after consulting various books is a pine marten.
We get lots of visiting toads and lizards – one of the toads was so friendly it used to lurk around the front door and knock to come in – I kid you not. One of the most fascinating insects is the praying mantis – they are a hugesize in France and I often find them on doorframes.
The animals here seem to be rather accident prone and several times we’ve had to come to the rescue. A cute French dormouse had fallen into a bucket of water and had to be dried off and a stunning black and yellow striped salamander fell into the pool skimmer. My son rinsed off the chlorine water, put him in the sun to dry and collected dead insects as sustenance for him during his convalescence.
Watch out Doctor Doolittle – your job is under threat!
Written on Tuesday, November 29th, 2011 at 3:13 pm
restaurants, sheep, wildlife, wolves
Sue went to Cafe de la Poste this weekend – doing research for this blog naturally – and when she arrived Sophie and Prosper were deep in conversation with a local she didn’t recognise. It was the local berger (shepherd) who keeps his sheep on the mountains of La Lance behind Venterol. It appears that recently he has lost several lambs to wolves and even one of his dogs who was trying to protect the flock and was forced over a crevace.
When Sue first bought her house a letter came round from the mairie pleading for people to help the previous berger (the uncle of today’s berger) who had had to have his flock destroyed due to a notifiable disease. The sheep who graze on the mountain pastures do a vital job of keeping down the brush and scrubby trees – real eco-warriors! The maire was asking each household to buy a sheep and Sue and her ex Phil did just that. Sadly they never got to meet it (or eat it!)
The news about the wolves seems to solve a bit of a mystery. One evening not so long ago Sue was driving home to Venterol when she saw an animal in the headlights – too big for a fox and more like a wild dog. She did wonder whether it could be a wolf but everyone said that wasn’t possible and how much wine had she drunk anyway?
So perhaps it was a wolf?
Written on Tuesday, October 25th, 2011 at 4:58 pm
activities, goats, sheep, walking in provence, wildlife
I always prefer my walks to follow a circuit. Turning back and retracing one’s steps is somehow dispiriting. There are a couple of walks I’ve found that have panneaux (information boards) along the route and apart from providing interesting and educational information they also give a sense of completion as you reach each stage.
This particular walk is found between Les Pilles and Chateauneuf La Bordette and is in an area used for grazing sheep and goats. We can give more precise directions as it’s not the easiest to find! The walk itself is very well signposted along the route with cute sheep signs pointing the way. The terrain is fairly easy with just a couple of downhill stretches that are slightly more tricky, and is very varied with open grassy sections, stony uphill paths and even a densely wooded area. There is a ruined farm with interesting bread oven and terraces once used for growing fodder and mulberry trees to feed silkworms. If you’re lucky enough you may see a flock of sheep complete with bells or a small herd of goats. The walk takes about an hour for the non superfit!
Written on Thursday, July 7th, 2011 at 10:35 am
activities, horse-riding, wildlife
For those of you who are keen cavaliers there are plenty of opportunities to ride in this area. There are a couple of clubs where you can ride in a manege for dressage/jumping/lessons etc but this is an area that lends itself especially well to long-distance riding. You can go off for a couple of days and stay at special pensions that will look after the horse too!
What could be better than exploring the beautiful countryside from the vantage point of a saddle. A much better view than hiking! At least that’s what Sue tells me since riding is not my thing. You’re also more likely to see the local wildlife as horses don’t frighten them away.
A place she recommends is Ferme Equestre La Viste – www.laviste.com is their website, 04 75 28 16 18 which is at La Roche sur le Buis. They offer a variety of randonnees and activities for adults and children – full details on their site or from the local tourist office. It is a bit of a drive from here but well worth it for the fantastic scenery of the Baronnies that you ride through. It is run by Veronique who is very sympa – Laurent from the Le Petit Caveau’s aunt.
Written on Thursday, April 5th, 2007 at 11:11 am
wildlife
Spring is definitely here. The blossom is out all around, the grass is green and needing mowing once a week, and the radishes, lettuce, spinach and onions in the new potager are doing well.
Yesterday I saw a Hoopie in the garden, obviously migrating back north. But of course the camera was upstairs.
And this morning 11 vultures from the local colony in Remuzat were out enjoying some joy riding on the thermals on the hill behind Le Colombier. And the hoopie flashed by as well.
Remember to pack your binoculaurs when you come.
