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A Year in Provence

Written on Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 at 11:06 am

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It’s always tempting when I arrive at Marseille just to jump in the car and hurtle as fast as I can up the motorway to reach my beloved bolthole. However on occasions I force myself to explore some of the interesting sites and areas between Marseille and here, by taking the scenic route or bison fute (crafty buffalo) as the French more colourfully refer to it.
Having read the Peter Mayle novels some time back I decided I ought to take a look at the Luberon where they’re set.
The scenery is indeed beautiful as you drive upto the plateau and gaze around at the stunning views. The scattered villages like Bonnieux are very quaint with an almost unreal feeling as though you’ve just stepped into a filmset. Lots of chic shops selling aspirational goods rather than day to day necessities. One thing that did surprise me though was how populated the area is – lots of villages and houses compared with the Baronnies for example. I have a sinking feeling that the popularity of the novels may have something to do with that.
It’s always tricky when you find an amazing area – you partly want to shout about it and partly to keep the secret to yourself for fear of spoiling it with an influx of people. I recall friends in the Sarthe complaining about part of the Dordogne having so many Dutch people that it felt like being in Holland and I also remember standing in Bergerac one Bastille Day and only hearing English spoken. Maybe that subject is for another blog – I digress!
So where shall I explore driving up from Marseille next time? Any suggestions?

Faux Amis

Written on Monday, July 18th, 2011 at 9:39 am

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‘Faux amis’ are words that look as though they translate directly from French into English but actually have a very different meaning. Some examples would be assister which doesn’t mean help but to attend or propre which looks like proper but means clean or own depending on its position.
A great example is the sign as you approach St Maurice to watch out for arbres inclines. Inclined to do what? Jump out on unsuspecting passers-by? No just leaning over the road.
However far more amusing are the innocent mistakes that we Brits make sometimes in our choice of French vocab.
Brits are known for their obsession with the weather but French friends were slightly confused on a beautiful sunny day when someone remarked on the neige in the sky as opposed to the nuages!
I recall a meal out when someone ordered Maigret de canard instead of magret which rather confused the waiter. Did Monsieur want his duck smoking a pipe and dressed up in a nifty hat?
Or what about the friend who wanting to improve her riding asked to learn to faire le trottoir rather than le trot. The instructor replied that he didn’t feel qualified to help her with that particular skill!!
Do you have any funny examples to add?

Depot de brocante

Written on Wednesday, July 13th, 2011 at 12:12 pm

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I just loving browsing brocante stores and bagging bargains. Le Colombier is so huge that I don’t think I shall ever get to the point where I have to declutter fortunately – the house just seems to swallow up items! There’s a great place just down the road towards Les Pilles (Le Depot Vente) where I’ve spent many a happy hour. I’ve bought items that range from huge pieces of furniture to a wonderful jug painted to ressemble a cockerel which I gave to Sue (since she acquired chickens in England her decor now has a very definite poultry motif).

There are, of course, many other local brocantes – a huge one in Valreas which has loads of furniture and also some lovely lace and materials – and a smaller one in St Maurice which I haven’t actually visited but drive past often. Outside there are always an attractive bench and a very ancient looking pram – and, when I say always, I mean for the last few years, at least! Not sure whether they are advertising props or the owner just can’t shift them!

And all the local villages will have their own Vide Grenier (literally – empty the attics, or what we’d call a car boot sale) at some time during the season, often accompanied by a concours de petanque, drinking of wine, and making merry.

For the more serious antique hunters you must visit L’Isle sur La Sorgue – a town of antique shops, with regular antique fairs and specialist markets.

Generally pieces are more expensive than in England but you can find bargains if you’re prepared to spend some time hunting – and, naturally, indulge in some spirited haggling!

Horsing around

Written on Thursday, July 7th, 2011 at 10:35 am

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For those of you who are keen cavaliers there are plenty of opportunities to ride in this area. There are a couple of clubs where you can ride in a manege for dressage/jumping/lessons etc but this is an area that lends itself especially well to long-distance riding. You can go off for a couple of days and stay at special pensions that will look after the horse too!

What could be better than exploring the beautiful countryside from the vantage point of a saddle. A much better view than hiking! At least that’s what Sue tells me since riding is not my thing. You’re also more likely to see the local wildlife as horses don’t frighten them away.

A place she recommends is Ferme Equestre La Viste – www.laviste.com is their website, 04 75 28 16 18 which is at La Roche sur le Buis. They offer a variety of randonnees and activities for adults and children – full details on their site or from the local tourist office. It is a bit of a drive from here but well worth it for the fantastic scenery of the Baronnies that you ride through. It is run by Veronique who is very sympa – Laurent from the Le Petit Caveau’s aunt.

Good news

Written on Saturday, July 2nd, 2011 at 11:30 am

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Change doesn’t have to be bad! Fans of Le Petit Caveau when run by Muriel and Christian were very concerned when they left and then delighted by the cuisine when Laure and Laurent arrived. Can’t believe that was over 10 years ago!

Sue’s son has just been to le Petit Caveau and met the new patrons who will be taking over very soon. They come from Paris and Ali and they swapped notes on good restaurants in the capital! He assures us that they share his impeccable taste and that they seem very ’sympas’! I’m looking forward to checking out the new regime at the Caveau.

Sad news

Written on Saturday, July 2nd, 2011 at 11:19 am

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Just heard that Laure and Laurent at Le Petit Caveau have sold the restaurant and are moving to Lyons. Laurent will be running the restauration at a brand new eco hotel in St Priest – a great opportunity for him and we wish them both bonne chance!
They’ve been at the Caveau for about 11 years providing us with Michelin star quality food and first class service – they’ll be sorely missed. And not just professionally – over the years we’ve become good friends – even attending their wedding a few years ago.
So it felt really sad eating there this week to celebrate my birthday, knowing it was my last meal there cooked by Laurent.
The new patrons have quite an act to follow, both in the kitchen and in the salle.
Still Lyon isn’t that far…..